Iter Facere

Iraklio

Still no photos. Hundreds in the camera, but you have to take our word for it that Crete is very attractive.

We left Rethymno, which we enjoyed thoroughly and toured the Amari Valley in the mountains. In Thassos we had a terrific time in a taverna which sold every local ingredient known to the mountain folk and then visited the 10th century church with unbelievable original frescos. Deep blue background, serene Byzantine figures that were remarkably well preserved. We had to ask the old lady next door to the church to let us in, she then mentioned that she sold coffee, so we had coffee with her (after she had brushed away the ants from the table). A German couple from Freiburg joined us. We chatted a bit. They were surprised that we we Americans, said there weren't too many up the that part of Crete. The toothless old lady was excited that we were Americans, she keep repeating "Americaniki" and smiling her single toothed smile.

Zaros was a delight. Nana (Iriana) who runs the hotel spoke only Greek and German. I struggled to remember my high school German. A combination of our 10 word Greek vocabulary, my 30 word German, some help from the school teacher who spoke some English and all questions were resolved. She insisted on cooking dinner for us the next night.

Now we are in Iraklio, having seen both Phaestos and Knossos, the two major Minoan sites. I like the Minoans. Beautiful pots and art work, great palace complexes. I need to buy a good book on them. Iraklio is a bit like Athens, modern and ugly but it has some nice areas and a fabulous museum with all of the finds from the Minoan sites. I tried to take pictures of everything, which will be tedious when we start looking at the photos.

Great dinner last night at a little non-descript taverna. I had a roasted pork loin with the best herb sauce. Good wine from the barrel. Iraklio isn't pretty but it has good food, and no menu gauntlet.

posted by Jim @ 9:42 PM